Painting Over the Ego: Thoughts on My First Holi Phagwah in Suriname

          

In Suriname, nestled somewhere between celebrations marking the birth of Christ and the redemptive celebration of Easter, there is Holi Phagwah. A Hindu holiday brought to this region by Indian indentured servants more than 100 years ago, Phagwah commemorates the triumph of good over evil, and at its foundation lies a bedrock of love and acceptance. Phagwah, however, is not a time for private reflection or proclamations of faith. It is a time for right-action, manifestation, and rejuvenation. It’s also a time to throw ungodly amounts of neon colored powder on friends, neighbors, and absolute strangers without repent.

Phagwah is a nation-wide holiday in Suriname and is celebrated publicly by Hindus and non-Hindus alike. As is usually the rhyme and rhythm for national holidays in Suriname, Phagwah starts off with smaller, familial gatherings, and as the day progresses it blossoms into an all-out party on the government lawn, several hundred yards from Suriname’s White House equivalent.

From an American perspective, it was shocking to see how close the Phagwah party was to important centers of government. And yet there were no M-16 touting agents lining the perimeter nor was the event shrouded by paranoia or a feeling that Big Brother was watching. The energy amongst the crowd of thousands couldn’t have been more jovial. The only terrorist among us was a bass-bomb dropping DJ at center stage. You would be remiss to expect anything less from a country like Suriname, where diverse cultures converge to collectively weave their perspectives into a technicolor quilt that blankets this tiny South American outpost.

Phagwah finds its roots in the Hindu legend of Vishnu and Prahald defeating an immortal demon king by employing crafty and elusive maneuvers. The tradition of throwing colorful powder on one another during Phagwah comes from a separate legend involving Krishna. Concerned his lover would not accept his dark blue skin color, Krishna, following the advice of his mother, painted his lover’s face a multitude of colors. The result was acceptance and true love.  

Ego dissolution plays a major role in achieving clarity along the path to overcoming life's evils. Although the ego tends not to dissolve unless in the presence of something hallucinogenic or meditative, the ego definitely struggles to shine through skin painted pink, purple, green, and blue. Use of Phagwah powder is not limited to any one part of the body nor is it a matter of being painted and then rushing to wash it off. Playful powder fights erupt like pillow fights throughout the day, staining clothes forever and skin for up to three days.

The art of tossing powder on passersby is something perfected over a lifetime. Techniques vary from majestic tosses at close range to long distance throws that paint the sky and fall like multi-colored snowflakes on the intended target. My first few attempts at powder tossing were more reminiscent of a WWE wrestler throwing salt in an opponent’s eyes.  After-which, I incessantly apologized by repeating the mantra, “Sorry, I’m an American. I’m an American, sorry.” 

The willingness of non-Hindus to step out of their religious nests is probably the most progressive bi-product of Phagwah, especially in a world where Christian retentions run the table of holy observances. And while Suriname’s citizens approach Phagwah with varying degrees of depth, the fact is, they still participate. 

Whether they view Phagwah as just an excuse to party or they consciously use it as a day to defeat their own demons, they all embrace the feeling of looking a little silly in public. Even more surprising, they do it with never-ending, genuine smiles on their faces. Every city in the world needs Phagwah, and at the micro-level, every tribe of friends needs a day where the only agenda is forging new bonds while erasing negative vibes in plumes of bright color.

Words By Keoni K. Wright